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Dyeing
Fabric Dyeing With Flowers
Wednesday, 4 September 2013
It's been a while since I experimented with natural dyeing techniques. After playing around last year I put it down to something I wanted to do but didn't have time to learn about. I saw Nancy's beautiful post about using flowers to dye fabric months back and I finally decided to give it a go. If you want to try it at home this is a great step by step guide.

I'm really pleased with the results. It looks all romantic, doesn't it? I'm not sure if the colour would hold up against washing so it might not be the best for clothing. I'm learning more and more about natural dyes and printing my own fabric and am so excited to be using some of it in the collection I'm working on.
Emerald and Florence
Saturday, 27 July 2013
Model - Ljiljana Pajovic / Styling and photography - Isabel Knowles
These are the last photos from my lookbook shoot. I hope you have enjoyed them. There are a few pieces I did not include and a few I am discontinuing from the collection. Your feedback always means a great deal indeed.
This shoot draws from my initial inspirations when creating the collection, but is also inspired by other sources from the same period - including some of my favourite novels 'I Capture the Castle' and 'Cold Comfort Farm'. The innocence and naivety of country life as it aspires to the City's high society and Hollywood. Debutantes and dairy maids.
Daphne and Trixie
Thursday, 25 July 2013
Rosie and Madeline
Tuesday, 23 July 2013
Model - Ljiljana Pajovic / Styling and photography - Isabel Knowles
(I've decided to release the images from yesterday's shoot in sections.
This way I get to pick more of the pictures I like without creating one
mile long post)
Golden Fields
Monday, 22 July 2013
I finally shot a bunch of photos to go with my Only A Sunny Smile (SS13) collection. These photos where taken so I could release the collection into my shop, but back in March there wasn't much sun to do a nice summery looking shoot.
I had so many different plans for where to do it but the weather wasn't right or I couldn't get people together, so it got put off and off, and then I thought I should give up and just concentrate on getting my next collection shoot done.
However, with this usually consistent hot weather we've been having I just felt it was now or never. So today I shot 2 rolls of film on my film camera, the sun was shining and the fields where golden brown, it felt almost like we were in Italy! The films have been developed and I'm so happy with the results - I was panicing that they would all be a fuzzy blur - and I'll be sharing the proper look book with you over the next few days.
Only A Sunny Smile - The Fabrics
Monday, 25 March 2013
I am working on a post about the 'ethical' and 'sustainable' side of my work, in which choosing fabrics plays a fundamental part. For now though I am going to talk you through my fabric choices for the spring summer collection 'Only A Sunny Smile'.
Having a very particular idea in my head of how I wanted this collection to look (rather than starting with the fabrics and working from there) meant that this collection involved a hell of a lot of research into what would be the best fabrics. I have already learnt so much over the past few years about the making of fabric and done a lot of reading into ethical fabrics and ones that don't damage the environment or people making them, but often things can get confusing and everyone seems to be saying different things! I ended up using only a few different fabrics for the whole collection.
Organic Cotton Sateen:
This fabric is great! Made from GOTS certified organic cotton it is soft and lovely to work with. I bought it in plain white and then hand dyed it myself in small quantities. This means I can know that no harmful chemicals have been used. It does mean that one batch may slightly vary from the next, but I think that's part of the charm in having a hand made garment. I used this material for my Madeline dress and used the same technique but dying organic cotton jersey for my Emerald top.
This fabric is great! Made from GOTS certified organic cotton it is soft and lovely to work with. I bought it in plain white and then hand dyed it myself in small quantities. This means I can know that no harmful chemicals have been used. It does mean that one batch may slightly vary from the next, but I think that's part of the charm in having a hand made garment. I used this material for my Madeline dress and used the same technique but dying organic cotton jersey for my Emerald top.
Velveteen:
Now, for this fabric I broke my rule of only using natural fibres, and unfortunately it is synthetic. I knew in my mind exactly what fabric I wanted to use for my Dahlia dress, in fact this was the first dress I designed for this collection, and based everything else around, and I had so much difficultly finding the perfect fabric. I first looked into using old cotton velvet, reusing vintage pieces I found on eBay or even curtains, but this couldn't work, I needed something soft and drapey and plain cotton velvet is too stiff and wouldn't look good. Then I found beautiful velvet made from a viscous/silk mix, the actual fabric is stunning, however, viscous, although originating from wood, is created using a method that is polluting, dangerous and uses a lot of water. Silk also, it pretty intense, it is made from the cocoons of silk worms, and they farm and kill them, not particularly nice. Another reason I didn't want to use this fabric is that it is not able to touch water and has to be dry cleaned. I want my clothing to be wearable and nobody likes paying big dry cleaning bills. When I was in Paris in January I stumbled across the exact fabric I imagined. It was a difficult decision for me to make to use this fabric, I love the look and feel of it, but I'd really like to know if anyone has any solutions for buying velvet type fabrics that can match these man-made ones in feel but not production?
Now, for this fabric I broke my rule of only using natural fibres, and unfortunately it is synthetic. I knew in my mind exactly what fabric I wanted to use for my Dahlia dress, in fact this was the first dress I designed for this collection, and based everything else around, and I had so much difficultly finding the perfect fabric. I first looked into using old cotton velvet, reusing vintage pieces I found on eBay or even curtains, but this couldn't work, I needed something soft and drapey and plain cotton velvet is too stiff and wouldn't look good. Then I found beautiful velvet made from a viscous/silk mix, the actual fabric is stunning, however, viscous, although originating from wood, is created using a method that is polluting, dangerous and uses a lot of water. Silk also, it pretty intense, it is made from the cocoons of silk worms, and they farm and kill them, not particularly nice. Another reason I didn't want to use this fabric is that it is not able to touch water and has to be dry cleaned. I want my clothing to be wearable and nobody likes paying big dry cleaning bills. When I was in Paris in January I stumbled across the exact fabric I imagined. It was a difficult decision for me to make to use this fabric, I love the look and feel of it, but I'd really like to know if anyone has any solutions for buying velvet type fabrics that can match these man-made ones in feel but not production?
Liberty Print Tana Lawn:
I knew I wanted to use Liberty fabrics for this collection. The quality of them is amazing, they feel soft and light for wearing in the summer months, and the floral prints just scream English summer time. Although not organic, I emailed Liberty and it is printed within the UK. Being 100% cotton means it is lovely to wear, also, it is not too stiff like other cottons so is very easy to take care of. I have used Liberty print bias binding throughout the whole collection to neaten edges and finish things off, I made this all in my studio and it adds a lovely touch to the garments, even if you can't see it from the outside! I used Liberty tana lawn for the Trixie top, Florance and Daphne dresses and the Rosie playsuit.
I knew I wanted to use Liberty fabrics for this collection. The quality of them is amazing, they feel soft and light for wearing in the summer months, and the floral prints just scream English summer time. Although not organic, I emailed Liberty and it is printed within the UK. Being 100% cotton means it is lovely to wear, also, it is not too stiff like other cottons so is very easy to take care of. I have used Liberty print bias binding throughout the whole collection to neaten edges and finish things off, I made this all in my studio and it adds a lovely touch to the garments, even if you can't see it from the outside! I used Liberty tana lawn for the Trixie top, Florance and Daphne dresses and the Rosie playsuit.
I am sorry for this rather wordy post, look at the pretty pictures I took of all the Liberty print fabrics when I was buying mine though! I hope you find this post interesting and a little insight into the process of choosing the right materials. I'm already stocking up on organic cotton and British wool for my autumn winter collection. If anyone has any advice on buying more ethical/environmental fabrics I'd really love to hear it! I think it's pretty important we look after this amazing planet we call home.
Only A Sunny Smile
Monday, 4 March 2013

Photography - Beci McDonald
Model - Ljiljana Pajovic
Styling - Isabel Knowles
It is official, I am launching my SS13 collection and I'm so pleased to share it with you. You can check it out in my Etsy, and I have also redone my online store too. It has been quite different the way I have developed this collection, I started with a theme, a mood and idea and went from there, whereas normally I fall in love with the fabrics and then work around them. To me it feels more of a consistent collection and I love the way it all looks together like this.
I really wanted to name this collection, as I feel it gives more of an insight into the feeling behind it rather than just, SS13, or Spring Summer. I ummed and ahhed about it for ages, settled on a Gershwin lyric, but then it didn't feel right. After trawling the internet (and bookshelves) for quotes and songs and poems I found this beautiful F. Scott Fitzgerald quote that seemed just too perfect;
“It was only a sunny smile, and little it cost in the giving, but like morning light it scattered the night and made the day worth living.”
I wanted this collection to conjure up images of long summer evenings, Gatsby's garden parties, cocktails, swimming in lakes, dancing all night, and staying up to watch the sun rise. Playful and fun, but with a hint of darkness to it, uncertainty or mystery. The quiet time when most people have gone to bed and you sit around planning the future and reminiscing on the past until the sun comes up on a new day.
Each piece is named after a female character from P. G. Wodehouse's 'Jeeves and Wooster' stories. These have been some of my favourate stories ever since I was little (I still can't sleep without a story tape - I miss tapes!). The world that Bertie Wooster lives in is a ridiculous one and I think it is lovely, and full of silliness. Also, when I'm working long into the night and nothing is on the radio but dance music, spooky stories, or the shipping forecast (which actually I like to listen to) I always seem to go back to the 'Jeeves and Wooster' audio books to help me through til morning, they are read by Richard Briers who sadly died a few weeks ago, I think he was a jolly good chap!
Anyway, I'm sure you get the gist, go and have a look! Now I must start on my AW13 collection...
Spring Summer Sneak Peek
Monday, 25 February 2013
(rather bad quality phone photos)
Yesterday I woke up & there was snow on the ground. A little bit silly considering we were due to shoot the Spring Summer collection, but we packed up the heaters & set off to take the photos. It was a really fun & freezing day. I am so grateful for Lilj my beautiful model & Beci my talented photographer (bottom middle photo - Beci is actually crouching down, but they height difference was pretty extreme), oh & Rob the general help & tea maker, for being such troopers & I am so excited to see the results. It's not easy to look warm & summery when you are half naked in an icey barn but Lil did the job so wonderfully & all the garments suited her a real treat.
Later this week I will release the collection for sale in my Etsy shop & my online store. I'll also be posting a few posts here about the thoughts behind the collection, the fabrics I have used, pieces I have not ended up including & other ramblings...
Sketch Book
Wednesday, 20 February 2013
Hello lovelies!
Here are some pictures of my SS13 sketch book. I always have a bit of a funny relationship with my sketch book, I hated doing sketch books as part of my work in school & college & I think this put me off for a long time. I always have my note book with me but it ends up just full of lists & calculations. When I was in London a few weeks ago I decided to buy a nice simple A4 book in which I could really concentrate on my Spring Summer collection & I've loved having something to sketch in. I am also trying to practice my fashion illustration & get a 'style'. I'm by no means there yet, but practice makes perfect. I've really missed drawing, & I'm so happy to start it up again.
Also, we rearranged our bedroom so now we have the desk in the window, so no excuse not to sit & draw in this lovely spot.
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